Sulawesi
INTRODUCTION
SOUTH SULAWESI
NORTH SULAWESI
CENTRAL SULAWESI
SOUTHEAST SULAWESI
Geography
Like the petals of a windblown orchid, the unruly peninsulas of Sulawesi reach out into the Celebes, Maluku, Banda and Flores Seas. The result of the collision of ancient continents, Sulawesi presents an extraordinary landscape – rugged mist-covered mountains, primal tropical jungle, emerald-green rice fields and deep, mysterious lakes dominate the interior. Along the coast, dazzling coral reefs encircle dormant volcanoes that jut dramatically out of the sea. Stretches of white sandy beaches fringed with coconut trees and scattered fishing villages are flanked by rugged limestone outcroppings that might have stepped out of a Chinese painting.
Sulawesi is largely mountainous and most of the island lies above 500 meters with high peaks reaching up to 3,500 meters. In South Sulawesi there are several dead volcanoes whose debris has contributed to the fertility of the surrounding land. In the north, the volcanoes are far from dead and the majority of the island’s 11 active volcanoes can be found in the Minahasa region of North Sulawesi
People
The extraordinary variety of Sulawesi’s landscapes is matched only by the island’s great ethnic, cultural and religious diversity. Best known are the lowland and coastal peoples of the south: Bugis, Makassarese, Mandarese and the highland Torajas. In the north, the Minahasans are a large and well-known group. Scattered around the island are score of other groups and outside the urban areas, travelers are more likely to hear to hear any of the lively spoken local languages.
Like so much of Southeast Asia, Sulawesi has always been open to new ideas from distant worlds across the sea. Although the vast majority of the population is Muslim the extensive historical trading with spice traders has left marks and around 17 percent of the population is Christian. In the isolated parts of the interior animist rites are still commonly found. The Torajas of the southern highlands are well known for their unique religious beliefs and their very special burial rites.
Flora and fauna
Sulawesi lies along the eastern side of the so-called Wallace line. The line makes up the boundary between a distinct Asian type of flora and fauna and an Australian kind that becomes more dominant the closer to the Australian continent one comes. Sulawesi is home to a series of endemic species only found on the island including the dwarf buffalo anoa, the babirusa with its unique teeth. Bird life includes 88 species only found on the island and the waters around the island are full of marine life of all forms. The sandy beaches of the Sulawesi are popular as breeding places for sea turtles.
Transportation
Since the greater part of the interior is rugged and mountainous, transportation can sometimes be rough. On-land transportation in Sulawesi is by means of public buses, taxis, or becak. The trans-Sulawesi highway connects the north with the south and there are frequent passenger boats cruising along the coastal ports. Regular air services connect the major cities and smaller aircrafts are used to reach the interior areas of the island.
SOUTH SULAWESI
Situated at the crossroads of strategic sea-lanes steeped in history, the province of South Sulawesi consists of the narrow southwestern peninsula of mountainous, orchid shaped island. The capital and chief trading port, Ujung Pandang, is still the gateway to eastern Indonesia.
Spanish and Portuguese galleons, followed by British and Dutch traders, sailed these seas in search of the spice trade, escorted by their Men-of-War to protect them from the daring raids of the Bugis and Makassar pirates. Famed for their seafaring culture, the Bugis are still the driving force behind the world’s last commercial sailing fleet. Bugis vessels have sailed as far as Australia, leaving behind images of their ships carved in stone, and Bugis words which were integrated into the Aboriginal language of northern Australia.
The seafaring Bugis dominate the southern tip of Sulawesi, but in the rugged and remarkable country further north is Tana Toraja, often referred to as the “Land of the Heavenly Kings”. The traditional culture of the Torajans rivals any in the archipelago, making this area one of the most popular tourist destinations in Indonesia.
Believing that their forefathers descended from heaven in a boat some twenty generations ago, the Torajans have a unique Christian-animist culture. The majority of the people still follow an ancestral cult called Aluk Todolo, which governs all traditional ceremonies. Their ancestor worship includes elaborate death and afterlife ceremonies, which are essentially great feasts. A strict social hierarchy is followed in the villages, and important social wedding burial ceremonies can take days to perform. Water buffalo and pigs are sacrificed in numbers appropriate to social rank, and the deceased’s remains are placed in a coffin and interred in caves hollowed out in high cliffs. The mouth of the cave is guarded by lifelike statues, called Tau Tau, who looks out from a balcony near the burial caves, watching over the families and friends they have left behind.
Tongkonan, the family houses, are built on stilts with the roof rearing up at either end, represent¬ing the prows of the first ship to arrive in the area with the Torajan ancestors. The houses all face north, and some say that this is because it was from the north that the ancestors of the Toraja came. Others, however will say that the north (and east) are regarded as the realm of the gods, on the compass of life.
South Sulawesi is also famous for its tremendous scenery and the quality and talent of its silk and silverwork industries, but the economy is largely based on agriculture. The provincial capital of Ujung Pandang, formerly Makassar, however, has excellent facilities for water sports and is easily accessible by air. There are daily flights from Jakarta and also daily services from Ball, Surabaya and Manado.
PLACES OF INTEREST
Ujung Pandang
The provincial capital of Ujung Pandang was once an important gateway to the former kingdom of Gowa. It continues to serve as such to the province today because of its natural harbor. The center of business and administration for the region, the city has expanded outwards from its most important landmark, Bentenh Ujung Pandang which faces the sea.
One of the eleven fortresses of the kingdom, Benteng Ujung Pandang was built in 1545 during the reign of Tuni Pallanga, the 10th sultan of Gowa. When Gowa capitulated to the colonial forces in 1667, the fort was renamed Rotterdam by Admiral Speelman, who constructed bastions and buildings of typical Dutch architecture. Of that original complex only the thick walls of earth and stone remain, now occupied by educational and cultural offices of the provincial government. Two buildings house the Ujung Pandang State Museum, exhibiting archaeological and historical objects, manuscripts, numismatics, ceramics and ethnic costumes and ornaments.
Jalan Penghibur
Sunsets in the Makassar Strait can be viewed from a promenade at Jalan Penghibur or the Paotere anchorage in the north end of the city where the Bugis schooners are berthed.
Samalona Island
Across the harbor of Ujung Pandang is Samalona Island, which has been developed into a pleasant recreational resort. It can be reached by boat in 45 minutes and has simple accommodation. Recreational sports include diving, snorkeling, water skiing and fishing. Best months to visit are from February to October.
Tomb of Sultan Hasanuddin
Sultan Hasanuddin (1629-1690) was famous for his exceptional bravery in his struggle against colonial encroachment in South Sulawesi. His huge crypt and those of other kings of Gowa are located in a secluded cemetery not far from Sunggminasa, about 8 km from Ujung Pandang. Just outside the walls of the cemetery, a small fenced-off plot contains the Tomanurung stone on which the kings of Gowa were crowned in pomp and splendor. Not far from the tombs is the oldest mosque in the area, built in 1603.
Bulukumba
You will find pristine white sand beaches at Bira, 178 km from Ujtmg Pandang to the south. Traditional shipbuilding is still practiced in this area. This is also the jumping off point for the island of Selayar.
Goa Wampu
The largest cave in South Sulawesi, the legendary cave of Mampu is about 140 km from the capital. In addition to amazing stalagmites and stalactites there are rock formations resembling human figures and animals, all of which have their own particular legend.
Bantimurung
To the northeast of Ujung Pandang are the Bantimurung waterfalls, about 41 km from the capital. A cascade of sparkling water gushes out between rocky cliffs into a stream shaded by tall trees. The brightly colored ornithoid butterflies – indigenous to this area – are considered among the most beautiful in the world.
Tana Toraja
The center of tourism in Tana Toraja is Rantepao, 328 km northeast of Ujung Pandang. Sitting 700 meters above sea level, Rantepao has cool, pleasant evenings. A gate built in traditional boat-shaped style marks the entry to Tana Toraja. The road passes the spectacular mountains of Kandora and Gandang on which, according to Toraja mythology, the first ancestors of celestial beings descended from heaven.
Two villages with easily accessible cliff graves are Lemo and Londa. Londa is one of the oldest hanging gravesites, in which are buried many members of local nobility. A large balcony is filled with effigies of the dead, the Tau Tau. Young village guides with kerosene lamps can be hired to enter the caves and see skeletons and old coffins. At Lemo, burial chambers are cut out of the rock and several balconies filled with Tau Tau overlooking new caves being dug to serve as family graves.
Palawa is an excellent village to visit a “Tongkonan”, or a burial place still swarming with celebrations and festivals. Visitors are welcome but they are expected to adhere to local dress customs and to bring a token present.
Take a side trip from Rantepao to Kete, a traditional village with excellent handicraft shops. Behind the village on a hillside is a gravesite with life-size statues guarding over old coffins.
As roads are not always paved, it is necessary to use a jeep or walk, even when the weather is good, (between May and October).
NORTH SULAWESI
North Sulawesi is a land of magnificent coral reefs protecting virgin-white beaches, mountains and active volcanoes, reminding the islanders and the world of the potential power of one of the earth's most awesome forces. The people of North Sulawesi can be classified into four groups: Minahasa, Bolaang Mongondow, Gorontalo and the Sangir-Talaud. The Minahasans are centered around the Provincial capital of Manado, but the entire province has a strong tra-dition of trade and contact with the outside world. The Sangir-Talaud island to the north of the mainland, form a natural bridge to the Philippines providing a convenient route for peoples and cultures to easily move between Indonesia and the Philippines, and many traces of Filipino culture can still he found here. Apart from introducing a Strong political and religious structure, the Filipinos encouraged the local populations to raise coconuts, copra and nutmeg. Today the main industries of the province are copra and cloves. North Sulawesi has a larger concentration of coconut trees than any other part of Indonesia.
The Dutch, however, have had the strongest influence on the development of the region. First contact with European traders came in the 16th century with the arrival of the Spanish and Portuguese, and with them they brought Chris-tianity. It wasn't until the arrival of the Dutch that Christianity became the predominant religion of the area. The provincial capital of Manado is one of the international gateways into Indonesia. Regular flights to all parts of the Indonesia archipelago service this beautiful town, as well as the smaller airports of Gorontalo, Tabuna and Talaud. Manado's main attractions are off-shore: the truly incredible coral reefs off nearby Bunaken island are now a protected Marine Park and offer some of the best diving and snorkeling in the world.
PLACES OF INTEREST
Manado
In total contrast to Torajaland, the area around the capital Manado in North Sulawesi has come under strong European influence since the 17th century.
Here, a lush, tropical landscape with miles of coconut trees; the air filled with the spicy tang of cloves, the area's main crop which eventually finds its way into Indonesia's famous clove cigarettes, kretek.
Apart from the friendliness of the locals, Manado is famous with divers and snorkellers the world over for the incredible clarity and underwater attractions of the Bunaken Sea Gardens, an hour's boat ride away.
There are plenty of other attractions including the quaint mountain town of Tomohon with its colourful market, Lake Tondano and the scenic Kali waterfall.
Bunaken
About half an hour by a motorized outrigger canoe from Manado, Bunaken Island is a veritable paradise for snorkelers and scuba enthusiasts. The coral reef off Bunaken Island is particularly noted for the drop-off at Liang Cove. It is des-cribed by international divers as being among the most spectacular anywhere in the world, with caves, gullies, and caverns harboring an immense wealth of marine life. The water averages a balmy 28 degrees C and visibility is sensational (over) 30 m.
Manado Tua Island
ManadoTua is the main island of the Manado Bay group. A path to the top of the central mountain takes several hours to climb, but the view takes in all the islands in the Manado Bay Superb snor-keling and skin diving. The beach is a mixture of white sand and coral formations. The reef lines the coast of Tangkoko Batuangus in a nature reserve. A permit should be obtained from Sub Balai Konservasi Suinber Daya Alam (Nature Conservation Office) in Manado, before heading for this reserve.
Tasik Ria
Tasik Ria is situated about 20 km southwest of Manado and has a beautiful sandy beach fringed with coconut trees. Ideal for sunbathing, swimming, fishing, diving and snorkeling, Tasik Ria seashore resort hosts the four-star Manado Beach Hotel, with 250 rooms, a swimming pool, bar & discotheque. Easily reachable by public bus or taxi from Manado.
Tara – Tara
15 km further southwest from Tasik Ria this village has traditionally been the center of Minahasan culture and arts. Traditional dances enthrall on the open air at Kemer Garden. There are World War II at Japanese caves at the Ranowangko dam, and the Kenier natural bathing spot nearby in the shadow of the volcano Lokon, Mount Kasehe and mount Tatawiran. Easily reachable from Manado by public bus or taxi.
Watu Pinabetengan
According to Minahasa history, this is the place where the ancestors first divided up the land among the people. Watu Pinabetengan means "The stone of discussion about the division". The famous megalithic stone here is covered with crude, mysterious drawings and a script which has never been deciphered. It is located in Tompaso, about 45 km from Manado.
Waruga
This ancient cemetery of Minahasan ancestors consist of 144 stone sarcophagi, remnants of the Megalithic age. "Waruga" sarcophagi are unique square stones with holes in the middle and prism shaped lids. The tombs are carved with various motifs such as human beings, plants, animals, and traditional geometrical motifs like clouds, strings, curls and double braids. The cemetery is located in Sawangan village, about 24 km from Manado.
Tangkoko Batuangus
An open grassland nature reserve covering the slopes of Mt. Dua Saudara, the park is composed of impressive green hills and valleys with wondrous scenic views of natural beauty. Black apes, maleo birds, snakes, wild pigs, hornbills and rusa deer live in the 3,196-hectare reserve. There are several cottages and small restaurants nearby. It is only reachable by four-wheel drive jeep from Girian village over a rough road.
Dumoga Bone National Park
Located on the border between two districts, approximately 260 km from Manado, this park straddles Dumoga in Bolaang Mongondow and Bone in Gorontalo. Its mountains and hills are blanketed in dense forests, making it an ideal habitat for rare species like maleo birds, anoas, hornbills and tarsius spectrums. An entry permit should be obtained from Sub Balai Konservasi Sumber Daya Alam (Nature Conservation Office) in Manado in advance.
Ranopaso
Sparkling clean natural hot springs set in a gorgeous setting of terraced rice fields make this a popular tourist destination. Bungalows are available at Koya village, about 3 km from Tondano.
CENTRAL SULAWESI
Central Sulawesi can be said to represent Sulawesi’s exotic wonders with its many natural attractions scattered throughout the land. Consisting mainly of mountainous areas, the province offers an exotic panorama of sea and mountains lying side by side. For the nature-lovers, Central Sulawesi is a must.
The population of Central Sulawesi is made up of several ethnic groups with their own distinctive languages. Even with a population of over 1,5 million the province still averages only 22 persons per sq km. And as the vast majority is distributed along the coasts, the hinterlands are very sparsely populated. As a result, the social and cultural way of life of the province is amazingly varied. There are 12 different ethnic groups represented speaking 24 languages besides the national Bahasa Indonesia.
Due to the sometimes very rugged geography of the province, the area was little influenced of the colonial era in Indonesia and the people have mostly managed their own affairs. The area has been renowned for the production and wear of barkcloth clothes.
A trip through Central Sulawesi will give the visitor a chance to witness a sort of microcosm of the multi-cultural Indonesian experience. Due to the rugged nature of the landscape, the natural attractions are best appreciated by the trekker with a sense of adventure and knowledge of at least a few words of Indonesian. For those with time and the patience, a trip through Central Sulawesi may be a vastly rewarding experience.
PLACES OF INTEREST
Lore Lindu National Park
The fresh water Lake Lindu – located in the center of the forest – is indeed tempting. But don't be surprised if the guide forbids you to bathe or just wash your face in this lake. This lake is one of few lakes in Indonesia which harbors the schistosomiasis parasite disease.
Exploring the Lore Lindu National Park is truly a challenge by itself. The Montane forest with its various oaks, chestnuts, laurels, and conifers, become a peculiarity of the 2,300 square kilometers national park. The park lies south-east of Palu, ranging from valley bottoms at about 200 meters to the peak of Mount Rorakatimbu at 2,610 meters, and most of the area is over 1,000 meters above sea level.
In the valley of Lore Lindu, which is located far inland, there are some of the most impressive megalith stones in the form of figures or sarcophagus. This locality can be reached from Palu.
Bada, The Lost Valley
This valley, which lies in the Lore Lindu National Park area, is indeed very removed and lies far inland. There are few means of transportation for getting there. Besides the refreshment of rural life in small villages, this valley contains many megalith remnants from ancient times.
The statues show a remarkable similarity to those found on Easter Island, in the Pacific. Although since 1898 many researchers have studied the statues, the mystic remains and there is as yet no indication that the veil of mystery that hangs over them will be lifted soon
Tanjung Api Wildlife Reserve
In this area the endemic animals of Sulawesi are protected. Located along the coastal area with plain land and low hills, the beautiful vies has its own attracting power. Tanjung Api, meaning Cape of Fire comes from then natural phenomenon of natural gas seeping to the surface and it is said to ignite spontaneously from time to time.
The Togian Islands
Fishing being the primary source of income, the visitor will se scores of tiny boats with striped triangular sails cruising to and from the fishing grounds. The islands are a haven for the divers as they are surrounded by coral reef environments boasting more than 160 species of marine life.
SOUTHEAST SULAWESI
The southeastern peninsula and Buton group of islands are inhabited by descendents of the Torajans and Bugis peoples, and due to the strong influence of the Islamic Bone kingdom most of the people in this part of Sulawesi are Muslim. There are five diverse cultural groups the Tolaki, Morunene, Buton, Muna (locally called the Wuna), and the Bajo. Most of the land area of Southeast Sulawesi is covered by natural jungle, with extensive plantations of teak and ironwood, which are used for local handicrafts and contribute to the local economy. The warmth of the Sulawesi people, the local flora, fauna and untouched beaches are the highlights of this unique locale. Up to the present day it has avoided inundation by tourists, and is waiting to several its natural beauty and the spirit of the people who live in it.
PLACES OF INTEREST
Kendari
Southeast Sulawesi's capital is Kendari, seat of government and tourist center of the province. It lies on a sloping hill overlooking beautiful Kendari Bay. Kendari artists are known for their artistic handicrafts in traditional designs, using indigenous roots and ironwood. Visitors will find quality products at good prices at the Berlin Handicraft Center and the Handicraft Exhibition Center, both belong the local Association of Government Wives (PKK). To be present at one of the colorful ceremonial events so frequent in Kendari is to be invited to participate. The closing of any ceremonial event. will be highlighted by the "Modero Dance" performed by local men and women. On-lookers arc invited to join the dance, ensuring a harmonious farewell.
Moramo Bay
This pristine bay is only one and one half -hours by car or speedboat from Kendari. The white sand beaches of Moramo Bay are host to a endless water activities and sports: from sun bathing to water skiing, swimming to boating, highlighted by snorkeling or diving in the crystal clear water.
Sea Garden of Pulao Hari
In Indonesian "hari" means daylight. Because of the way the sun's rays reflect off the waters surrounding this island, the local people call it the "Island of Daylight", Pulau Hari. Swimming, boating and other marine sports has a natural home along these shores. Pulau Hart is blessed with an amazing coral reef with excellent snorkeling and diving.
Napabale and Motonunu Lakes
Napabale Lake is connected to the sea via a natural tunnel. At low tide strong swimmers can brave this span of water for an exciting and unusual experience. It is dangerous to attempt this feat during high tide, as the water rises to only one half meters below the roof of the tunnel. Motonunu Lake is known for its clean, clear, dark-blue water. Although it is also connected to the sea, it is a fresh water lake. Both lakes are 15 km from Raja, the capital of Muna Regency on Muna Island. They are accessible by sailboat, from Raha, in only 45 minutes.
Moramo waterfall
No other in Indonesia is quite like the Moramo Waterfall. It traverses a 2 km plateau, with 127 separate terraced plumes, the top of the waterfall some 100 meters above its basin pool. There are seven main terraces, each with its own natural bathing pool. Surrounded by lush jungle, this is the perfect. Place for those who love nature at its most sublime. Only 65 km east of Kendari, Moramo Waterfalls is easily accessible by car, or by crossing Moramo Bay by boat, and enjoying panoramic views of the sea.
Batu Gong Beach and Toli-Toli Hill
20 km from Kendari to the north, Batu Gong beach is a new recreational resort along a 3 km white-sand beach. At the edge of the beach are huge stones, which when hit sound like a gong, hence the name of this area. Gorgeous view's the sea can be enjoyed from the top of nearby Toli-Toli hill resort.
Baton Island Group
Baubau is the principal on Baton Island, the former capital of the Sultan of Wolio, who ruled Buton and the nearby islands of Muna, Kabaena, Wowini and Tukangbesi. The people conducted trade communicated with both China and the Majapahit Kingdom, on the Island of Java. Interestingly enough, the first ruler who governed this region was a queen, and the last was a king. The most fascinating cultural appeal of Baton Island can be enjoyed when local people conduct ceremonies, celebration celebrations and folk events, which welcome honored guests. One is the Pakandekandea, when food and cakes are offered to visitors and traditional dances are performed. Buton Island is well known for its asphalt, called Buton or Butas Asphalt, and for its teak and ironwood. Nirwana Beach is located 12 km from the village of Baubau, and is popular for swimming and its fine white sand beach. The small adjoining island, only thirty minutes away by sailboat, is a fisherman's paradise. There is daily boat service from Kendari, with a stopover in Raha, the capital city of the island of Muna.