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Kalimantan

INTRODUCTION
 
Geography
Kalimantan, being one of the main islands of the Indonesian archipelago, comprises roughly the southern three-quarters of the equatorial island of Borneo – the third-largest island in the world after Greenland and New Guinea. The northern part belongs to Malaysia and the small Sultanate of Brunei.
 
Kalimantan covers around 539.460 sq km and makes up more than a quarter of Indonesia’s territory, yet holds only 5% of the country’s population. It is administratively divided into four provinces, each with its own enchanting characteristic – East Kalimantan, Central Kalimantan, South Kalimantan and West Kalimantan.
With an interior which is clad in rugged rain forests and laced with mighty rivers – among them Indonesia’s longest: the Kapuas (1143 km), the Mahakam (650 km), and the Barito (890 km) – it excites the imagination and makes a unique travel experience for the visitor. For along time Kalimantan was favored only by the fearsome Dayak headhunters, its rivers their roads, its mountains the abode of their dead souls awaiting rebirth.

People
About ten million people dwell in Kalimantan, the majority – predominately Chinese and Malay – living near the coastal areas. Because of the island’s vast coastal swamplands, cultivation is difficult and the urban dwellers of Kalimantan usually live by trading or working in service or manufacturing industries.
Dayak is a collective name for the 200 or so different tribes that comprise the island’s native peoples. Living inland along the banks of major rivers and tributaries, they make up almost half of the territory’s population. Each tribe has its own tribal name and speaks its own language

Flora and fauna
Kalimantan’s most precious resource is its forests. Soaring trees, tangled lianas, thorny rattans, strangling figs and cascades of delicate orchids are among the myriad colorful threads that combine to form the exotic tapestry of Kalimantan’s rainforests. Home to more than 11.000 species of flowering plants, a third of them endemic, and around 4,000 species of tree, Kalimantan gives the term ‘biodiversity’ a meaning. The territory is also the origin for several tropical fruit tress such as the mango, the breadfruit or the durian – the King of fruits.

Kalimantan’s wildlife is no less varied with almost 500 species of birds and more than 200 land mammals: ranging from the splendid peacock-tailed Argus pheasant to tiny birds such as the pitta, from pesut or fresh water dolphin in Mahakam River to the most unusual primates - bekantan or proboscis monkey, and orangutan. The latter is specially protected and provided with an orangutan rehabilitation center in Central Kalimantan.
 
Transportation
Since the greater part of the land consists of forest and rivers, the main transportation in Kalimantan is by means of small boats/water-taxis. On-land transportation in Kalimantan is by means of public buses, taxis, or becak. Klotok ambulance is a small boat equipped with medical facilities for the health service in the hinterland in South Kalimantan Motor-vehicles are used for in-town transportation or connecting the cities with their vicinities/suburbs located nearby.
 
Accomodation
In the major cities, inns and luxurious hotels are available. In small towns, usually local losmen (like an inn) can be found. However, entertainment and restaurants of international standards can be found only in the big cities’ luxurious hotels.
 

As a major producer of oil and timber, East Kalimantan is at present the most industrially advanced province of the island and the second largest province in Indonesia. It is also the home of the original inhabitants of Kalimantan, the Orang Gunung or Mountain People The tribes are collectively called Dayak, although this name is not embraced by many tribes-people themselves, who prefer to be known by separate tribal names such as Iban, Punan and Banuaq.

Local tribes traditionally live in communal long houses called Lamin or Umaq Daru. They are built on wooden piles which can sometimes be as tall as 3 meters high as protection against wild animals and flooding The Punan, however, are nomadic hunter-gatherers, who still move around the jungles and only use the longhouse at the height of the rainy season. Steeped in tradition, the interior of the longhouse is typically divided into separate family quarters with a communal area connecting each of the quarters and therefore each of the families. It is in these communal areas that village meetings are held and ceremonies performed, thereby reinforcing the strong tribal bonds that have kept the Dayaks alive in the face of rapidly advancing 20th century technology.

Guardian statues are normally placed in front of long houses to protect them against evil spirits who bring disease and bad fortune. Such longhouses, however, are steadily disappearing and many that remain have been converted into meeting halls or stages for dance and music performances The more remote and traditional tribes-people have pierced earlobes, which over the years have become stretched by the weight of heavy gold or brass rings, and beautifully elaborate tattoos. Local jewellery and designs are intricate and powerful, often giving messages to be passed down from generation to generation.

The most common starting points for many journeys and adventures inland are Balikpapan and Samarinda, the provincial capital, because of regular flight services to Jakarta.

Traveling along the extensive Mahakam river system, which has carved its way through the jungles and flatlands constantly reshaping and nourishing the land, is a fascinating adventure. River boats slide unobtrusively through heavily silt laden waters where plants and animals feed and drink along these nourishing shores; wild orchids drip off trees; bekantans (Proboscis monkeys), orangutans, crocodiles, clouded leopards, crab eating macaques, giant butterflies and the legendary hornbill all live here.

A 5,000-acre Orchid Reservation close to the village of Kersil Luwai cultivates 27 different species of orchid including the very rare Cologenia Pandurata or black orchid.

PLACES OF INTEREST

Samarinda
Samarinda is known for its fine sarong cloth. The city shows some signs of being the capital of a prosperous province. New government office and public utilities are rising everywhere. Samarinda has a number of modest but comfortable hotels.

Balikpapan
Balikpapan, the center of Kalimantan’s oil industry is also the gateway to East Kalimantan with air and sea connections to Jakarta and other major points in Indonesia Even the trip to Samarinda, begins in Balikpapan. In accordance with its importance, Balikpapan has a number of good hotels, including of international standard, as well as recreation facilities. It has the second busiest airport in the nation after Jakarta.

Berau and Marine Tourism on Derawan Island
Found here are the remains of a king called the Keraton Gunung Tambur and The Keraton Sambaliung Historic objects can be seen here Derawan island is about 3 hours by a long boat from Tanjung Redep or via Tarakan.

There are many rare animals such as the green turtle, the scarlet turtle, star fruit turtle and sea cow. Other things of interest are rare species of marine plants, coral reefs, iguanas, sea birds, crab and the location for pearl diving. It is also good for scuba diving, fishing, swimming, and other water sports

Bontang
Located in the regency of Kutai with an area of about 200.000 ha, Bontang has a rare flora and fauna The Kutai National Park near Bontang is worth visiting to see sceneries especially those at Beras Basah.

Bulungan
Bulungan is a place for the adventure-seeking visitors. Things of historic value and ancient remains, art collections and traditional ceremonies, with a background of beautiful panoramas of the jungle and mountains are to be found here.

Tanah Merah lndah – Lempake
This is recreational park called Tanah Merah Indah-Lempake with a waterfall, located 16 km from downtown Samarinda. It can be reached by car or public transportation.

Tenggarong
Tenggarong, up the Mahakam River from Samarinda, is the capital of the Kutai regency and was once the seat of the Kutai sultanate. The Sultan’s palace at the riverside is now a museum where the old royal paraphernalia are kept, as well as an excellent collection of antique Chinese ceramics.

Dayak statues can be admired in the yard. A curious thing about the royal paraphernalia is that they display a strong resemblance with Java’s court traditions.

Every 24th of September, the former palace becomes a stage of dance and music performances given to celebrate the town's anniversary.

Tanjung Isuy
This little settlement around Lake Jempang in the lake-studded East Kalimantan hinterland, has a traditional Dayak longhouse which has been turned into lodges for visitors The grave of a Benuaq Dayak chief lies aside the hamlet’s only road. Visitors are usually given a traditional Benuaq Dayak welcome. The trip to Taniung Isuy over the Mahakam river is a long but interesting one past floating villages and forest scenery If you are lucky, you can watch a belian, or witch doctor, dressed in his skirt of leaves, curing his patients at night by performing the rites prescribed by ancestors to the frenzied accompaniment of gongs and drums. Many Benuaq Dayaks still prefer the old cures to the modern ones at government public health centers which are nearby.

Melak – Kersik Luway
Melak is a little village further upstream on the Mahakam river in the heart of the land of Tanjung Dayak. Not far from the village is the Kersik Luway nature reserve, where the Black Orchid grows.

Muara Ancalong – Muara Wahau
Dances of the Kenyah Dayak are often performed here for visitors at a traditional longhouse. Also various handicrafts can be seen and purchased.
 

WEST KALIMANTAN

Lying directly across the equator and the main gate way into the Province of West Kalimantan is the provincial capital of Pontianak This rapidly developing and surprisingly large city was founded in 1771 by Syarif Abdul Rahman Al-Kadri of Saudi Arabia and is now a bustling economic hub as well as home to a sizeable university and a giant indoor sports stadium. Canals crisscross the city and one of Indonesia's longest rivers, the Kapuas 1,143 km long, divides the town in two, providing an essential and historical communications link. Like Java and Sumatra, West Kalimantan was once an important cultural crossroads

Hinduism reached West Kalimantan by about the year 400 and evidence of both early Hindu and Buddhist civilizations in the region have been discovered. Stone carvings and ceramics can be traced as far back as the 5th century, but it is the influence of Islam that has had the most impact on this region

The advent of Islam in West Kalimantan occurred at about the same time as the rise of the first Islamic Kingdom in Aceh in the 15th century and was introduced primarily from South Sumatra and North Kalimantan, and the country of Brunei. Islam was rapidly embraced and various kingdoms grew in strength and power particularly because of Kalimantan’s strategic importance along trade routes to China and the Philippines.

West Kalimantan covers an area of over 146.807 sq km, which is rich in a variety of minerals and precious stones and remains largely unexplored. Coastal areas are mainly swamplands with more than 100 rivers sculpting the flat plains, but in the mountainous eastern parts of the province, away from the city and plains, there are many Dayak villages.

The Dayaks have ancient traditions and beliefs which are expressed in various forms; earlobes elongated by heavy earrings, tattoos, intricate paintings, designs and carvings and wonderful dances of respect, heroism, welcome and cure. A large Chinese population, Malays and other Indonesian ethnic groups account for the rest of the Inhabitants of the province.

West Kalimantan is easily accessible from Jakarta or Singapore by air and boat and over land journeys provide a rare opportunity to see the interior of one of the world's largest and richest islands

PLACES OF INTEREST 

Pontianak
As the capital of West Kalimantan, there are some interesting places to visit, among others the Equator Monument, Kadariah palace in Kampung Dalam, the State Museum, the Kapuas and Landak Bridges with a river view and floating market. The beach resort of Kijing and Temajoh Island are good places for diving, fishing and sailing.

Betang (Long House)
On the outskirts of Pontianak is a Daya traditional long house at Saham village, 158 from Pontianak. The measures of long house are 186 m long; 6 m wide and 269 people live there. There is no accommodation here.

Pasir Panjang
It lies 17 km from Singkawang in the Sambas regency There is the beach resort of Pasir Panjang, ideal for swimming Comfortable cottages are available equipped with a tennis court. In the vicinity of Singkawang, the Gunung Poteng hill resort with its fresh air is a good place for nature lovers

National Park and Nature Reserve
The Gunung (Mount) Palung national park located in the Ketapang regency is home to miscellaneous flora and fauna The Raya Pasi Mountain located in the Singkawang regency is also interesting tovisit to see the Rafflesia or the Giant Flower

Singkawang is also a nature reserve. The forest of Sanggau is worth a visit where hot springs, lakes and caves can be found. The other nature reserves are the forests of Baning and Kelam Hill in the Sintang Regency. While in Kapuas Hulu, there is the Bentuang Karimun Nature Reserve where lake Sentarum and the protected siluk fish (Sclerop hages Formocus) are found.

Sambas Palace
This palace is one of the remnants of the Kingdom of Sambas. Up to the present time it is still kept in good condition. There are many antiques to be seen

ACCOMODATION

West Kalimantan has just been developed for tourist traffic. However, Pontianak has three-star hotels, each with modern amenities and also facilities for conventions. Two and one-star hotels have air-conditioned rooms with attached bathrooms, telephones, TV and restaurants. Several moderate accommodations, such as lodges and inns, are common in every regency.
 
 

The Meratus Mountains divide South Kalimantan into two distinct regions. The eastern part of the province is filled with mountains covered with dense tropical rain forests, home to the “Orang Gunung” or Mountain Peoples. Collectively called the Dayak, they form the mino¬rity of the region’s population. The southern sec¬tion of the province is much flatter with large rivers meandering through lowlands to vast mangrove swamps along the coast, helping to make South Kalimantan an exceptionally fertile land. Many villages and settlements have been built along these rivers. Particularly the Barito River, by the indigenous majority called the Banjar.

South Kalimantan is full of colorful and dis¬tinctive traditional arts and cultures which can be seen in its people’s ways of life, art, dance, music, ancestral dress, games and ceremonies. Exquisite traditional and commercial handicrafts are all made from local raw materials which include a variety of precious and semi¬precious stones, gold, silver, brass, iron and a wide variety of woods including bamboo and rattan. South Kalimantan is one of the largest wood producers in Indonesia. Extensive forests with a wide variety of trees such as ironwood, meranti, pinus and rubber have helped to make the province a unique and rich natural resource.

The provincial capital, Banjarmasin, lies a short distance from the mouth of the Barito River at its confluence with the Martapura River. The rivers are literally the life-blood of the city and everything revolves around them. They are lined with tightly packed stilt houses and a lot of business is done on the waterways; floating markets flourish selling an enormous variety of goods including a tropical selection of fresh fruit such as kesturi, a rare aromatic species of mango, durian, rambutan, butter fruit, pineapple, watermelon and banana.

South Kalimantan is well connected with cities all over the Indonesian Archipelago through Syamsuddin Noor airport, which is about 25 km from Banjarmasin. This busy airport handles DC9’s, allowing Merpati Nusantara, Bouraq and Sempati dan Dirgantara Air to service the province. South Kalimantan can also be reached by sea at Trisakti and Banjarmasin. For interior travel there are roads, but the waterways are the pre¬ferred form of travel.

PLACES OF INTEREST

Banjarmasin and its surroundings
Banjarmasin, the capital city, lies at the delta of the Barito River. Nicknamed ‘River City’, it is crisscrossed by numerous rivers of various sizes and lengths, the major two being the Martapura and Nagara. Local people build traditional floating houses made of wood or bamboo facing the rivers, called lanting. There is a virtual flood of lively floating markets. To experience Banjarmasin you must take to the river, either by klotok (river bus), or a speedboat for longer trips.

Banjarmasin is developing as a tourist city. Supermarkets such as Mitra Plaza,Ujung Murung Central Market, and Pasar Baru provide for the travelers needs. There are 7 starred hotels and 20 lesser hotels. For entertainment there are 21 movie theatres, Karaoke bars, cultural theatres and restaurants serving local as well as international foods.

Floating Market
There are floating markets of all sizes everywhere on the river, but one of the best is at the junction of the Kuin and Barito rivers. Get there early, everyone packs up and heads home by 9 AM.

Flower Island
The island on the Barito river is not far from the floating market. Although there are many species of monkeys on the island, most of the action is at the old Chinese temple where local Chinese bring offerings of fresh fruit and peanuts to a tribe of aggressive macaques in hopes of being blessed with even greater prosperity.

Kaget Island
It takes about 1 1/2 hours by klotok boat or 1 hour by speedboat to get to this island reserve, home to a wide variety of birds and monkeys, most notably the humorous long-nosed probiscus monkeys.

Diamond digging at Cempaka & Martapura
Cempaka is a small village 10 km from Banjarbaru, and 45 minutes from Banjarmasin. It is an old site of traditional diamond digging, using very simple equipment. In 1985 a large raw diamond of 116.7 carats was found. Martapura is the center of diamond and precious stone polishing.

Loksado
Loksado is an important market town in the mountains east of Kandangan, and an excellent place to base yourself for exploring the area. There are a few small losmen and hotels for accommodation. The trekking is wonderful; peoples living in the traditional ways inhabit over 20 villages in the surrounding area.

Adventure River Rafting
The Amandit River runs through Loksado and then joins the mighty Barito River. Visitors usually use the river to get back after visiting Loksado.

The river trip, by either bamboo or rubber boat, includes some exciting white water sections. The trip can be made in two parts. The first is from Loksado to Muara Hatip. The second is from Muara Hatip to Batu Laki. The first stretch has rapids ranked as grades 1 to 2 1/2. The second includes rapids of grade 3.
 

CENTRAL KALIMANTAN

Central Kalimantan is the biggest province on the island, covering 153,800 square kilometers, most of which is jungle. The northern area is mountainous and difficult to reach. The central area is dense tropical forest. The southern area is swampy and has many rivers. The climate is hot and humid.

The three Dayak sub-tribes who inhabit this province are the Ngaju, Ot Danum, and Ma’anyan Ot Siang. The Ngaju are nomadic, adhering to the old Kaharingan religion, which is a form of ancestor worship mixed with elements of animism. With approximately 6,000 people, the Ot Danum is the largest among the three sub-tribes. The Ot Danum live in longhouses which sometimes have as many as 50 rooms. The women are known for their skill in plaiting rattan, palm leaves, and bamboo. Like other Dayaks, the men are good hunters, using simple tools.

The art of Central Kalimantan clear1y bears the marks of the Kaharingan religion, which is the traditional belief of the Dayaks in the hinterland of Central Kalimantan – building styles, statues and carvings have been influenced by the Hindus, Chinese, and Hindu-Javanese. Aside from their aesthetic properties, many objects are appreciated for their magic value.

PLACES OF INTEREST

Palangkaraya
In the local Dayak language, Palangkaraya means ‘holy container’. Palangkaraya can easily be reached from Jakarta, Banjarmasin, Samarinda, Balikpapan and other points on the island by air.

The town has become the center of government, trade and education of the province. The Regional Museum of Palangkaraya contains a collection of historical and cultural interest from all over Central Kalimantan. The Nature Reserve of Tangkiling lies 34 kilometers north of Palangkaraya.

Kualakapuas
Kualakapuas is the capital of the Kapuas regency, on the Kapuas River, 40 kilometers from Banjaramasin. A well-known tourist attraction is Telo Island, a pleasant fishing village and port.

For the adventurer, white-water rafters and nature lovers, there is Gohong Rawai, known for its beautiful wild challenging rapids. The gold mines of Teweh and Batu Api, Rungan district, are also interesting sites to be visited. In this region, gold mining is a major source of livelihood for the people, who pan for the valuable metal using the old traditional method. Gold mines are found in many places in Central Kalimantan.

Sampit
Sampit is the biggest timber port in Kalimantan and Indonesia. Pandaran Beach is a park on the seaside at the mouth of the Sampit River. The Orchid Park of Pembuangan Hulu is home to a number of rare and beautiful orchid varieties.

Hunters can engage in their favorite pastime in the hunting park of Kotawaringin Barat.

Pangkalanbun
Pangkalanbun is the capital of the Kotawaringin Barat regency, in the western part of Central Kalimantan. Make sure to visit the old Palace of Pangkalanbun, constructed completely out of ulin (iron wood). It is the only Banjar royal legacy found in Central Kalimantan- The Mosque of Kyai Gede is more than 300 years old. The Tanjung Puting National Park is a well-known nature and wildlife reserve in the lowland and swamp forests, inhabited by orangutans, owa-owa, bekantan and other primates. One can visit the Orangutan Rehabilitation Center which is supported by the World Wildlife Fund (WWF).
 

 

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